All Panerai watches are the result of an interaction between
historic elements and advanced technical solutions. The
historic references speak of the identity of the brand,
its Florentine origins, the excellence of Italian design in
the period between the 1930s and the 1950s, and the underwater missions carried out by the commandos of
the Italian Navy for whom these watches were created.
Their technical features are “Swiss Made”, embodying the
character of a maker which has preserved the centuriesold
heritage of the international home of high-end watchmaking while at the same time constantly renewing
The two new Special Editions launched by Officine
Panerai, each of which consists of only 300 units, are a
reinterpretation of this dialogue, driven by passion and
ideas, technology and design, the past and the future: the
new Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC models.
The first historical element of the new models is the
Luminor 1950 case. There is a subtle difference between
the Luminor case and the Luminor 1950 case, and naturally
the origins of this distinction are to be found in the history
of Officine Panerai. The number “1950” refers to the year
when the case with the iconic lever device protecting the
winding crown was designed; it was developed to make
the watch worn by the commandos of the Italian Navy even
stronger and more water-resistant. The proportions of this
historic case were not reproduced by Panerai until 2002,
when the first Luminor 1950 (PAM00127) was launched.
This was a Special Edition faithful in every detail to the
watches of the original period, and it has since become
a cult object among collectors. The first models of the
modern era to be fitted with the lever device (from 1993)
were designed with a slightly revised design, which today
identifies the Luminor collection. It can therefore be said
that the Luminor case was inspired by the modern history
of Panerai while the Luminor 1950 case was linked to
the past history of the brand: the legendary story of the
commandos and their missions.
The two new models have a small detail marking their
link with Panerai’s history: the date “1950” is engraved
on the lever locking the winding crown. The case is made
of titanium – a light, strong, hypo-allergenic material –
coated with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and it is 47 mm
in diameter, like the vintage models. The result of the interaction of all these elements is a case with a vintage
design but the performance of contemporary high-end
watchmaking. Emphasised by the brown leather strap with
contrasting stitching, with the OP logo stamped upon it,
the look is dark, sober and sporty, and is reminiscent of
the depths of the sea where Panerai watches were born
and in which the new models will be able to dive, since
their water-resistance is guaranteed up to 10 bar (a depth
of about 100 metres).
The two new Luminor 1950 3 days Titanio DLC differ from
each other in the dial, which in both cases is protected by
a rounded crystal. One version (PAM00617) has the black
dial with the classic Panerai design, with large bar markers
and figures, the seconds counter at 9 o’clock, the OP logo
and the traditional sandwich construction. By contrast,
the other model (PAM00629) has a black dial with a
combination of Roman and Arabic numerals and graphic
markers; this variant is known as the California dial and is
much sought-after by collectors because it reproduces the
design of the first Panerai watch in history, the Radiomir
of 1936.
The movement of the new Luminor 1950 is the P.3000
calibre, hand-wound with a power reserve of three days.
The P.3000 calibre is 16½ lignes – a size typical of the
vintage models – and it has a very sturdy, reliable structure,
with a wide balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter, firmly held
in place by a transverse bridge. Most of the wheelwork
is covered by wide, brush-finished, chamfered bridges, a
finish which gives the movement a sporty yet sophisticated
appearance. Entirely designed and built by the Officine
Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the calibre also has the
device for quickly setting the time, enabling the hour hand
to move in jumps of one hour at a time, without interfering
with the movement of the minute hand or the running of
the watch.


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