Breitling’s latest collaborations with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles get a mighty upgrade with the addition of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.
Breitling used the backdrop of the Wheels & Waves surf-and-motorcycle festival in Biarritz, France, to launch the two latest editions to its Top Time range. The brand’s “unconventional chronograph”, first released in the 1960s, started as a boldly designed tribute to the freewheeling spirit of its era. Today, the racing chronograph maintains its strong identity while being all about motorbikes, classic cars, and adventure on the open road.
The two new pieces build on the success of Breitling’s past collaborations with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles, and take them into high gear with the introduction of the exceptional Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.
“These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Caliber 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike.”
Back, in Black: The Top Time Deus
Hot on the heels of two sold-out limited editions, Breitling and the Australian custom motorcycle and surf outfitter Deus Ex Machina have joined forces on a third installment of the Top Time Deus, set to become part of Breitling’s core collection.
The new piece presents a monochromatic departure from its colorful predecessors, with a black dial contrasted by its white triple-register subdials and tachymeter scale. It works on either a black racing-themed calfskin leather strap or a mesh metal bracelet. Where the color comes in are with touches of red on the outer dial and – most vividly – on the centerpiece chrono hand that, like the two previous Top Time Deus editions, is shaped like a lightning bolt.
Once again, the sublime engine behind this watch is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, whose open sapphire-crystal caseback features a red Deus logo at its center.
Fire and Ice: The Top Time Triumph
Breitling first teamed up with the British heritage motorcycle manufacturer Triumph in 2022. The two brands kickstarted their collab with the release of a Breitling Speed Twin Limited Edition bike and a duo of Top Time Triumph watches – one released as 270 numbered pieces for bike owners and the other available to fans.
Both models featured a unique ice-blue dial whose distinctive shade was precisely color matched to a Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951, and a rare, blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s.
This year’s version of the Top Time Triumph, now part of Breitling’s core collection, received a premium upgrade, with the addition of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. The movement’s refined mechanism is now visible through a new open-caseback design. The dial features a twin-register display with speed-measuring tachymeter scale, and the Breitling and Triumph logos at 12 and 6 o’clock. Its attention-grabbing ice blue color pairs with a choice of black racing-themed calfskin leather strap or mesh metal bracelet.
Collectors are sure to pick up on a few throwbacks to vintage Breitling, which include a retro logo, mushroom chronograph pushers and a “Zorro” dial design. The bowtie motif introduced on Top Time in the 1960s (and nicknamed after the infamous swashbuckler’s mask) has been subtly integrated using a metal brushing technique only visible under certain light.
The Chronograph Perfected: Breitling’s Manufacture Caliber 01
If you’ve been following the Top Time story, you might remember that, back in March, Breitling re-released its Top Time Classic Cars series with the Breitling Caliber 01. Now the Top Time Triumph and Deus are getting the Breitling 01 treatment, too. So what makes this movement so special? First introduced in 2009, Breitling’s flagship manufacture caliber was designed from the ground up, incorporating over a century of watchmaking expertise. It has gone on to become the industry benchmark for chronograph movements, both in terms of functionality and aesthetics. The Caliber 01 is equipped with a column-wheel system, the hallmark of high-end mechanical chronograph movements, and a vertical clutch that provides precise and smooth operation. The movement holds its power for approximately 70 hours (versus 38 to
48 hours for non-manufacture). Its clever modular design allows for easy cleaning and servicing by giving access to specific caliber areas without the need for a full disassembly. Breitling is so confident in the quality of its manufacture calibers that it offers them with a 5-year warranty (compared to 2 years for non-manufacture). That’s because they’re subject to a meticulous quality-control process. It takes 10 months of production and 1,000 tests to earn COSC certification for accuracy. On top of that, Breitling puts its manufacture movements through a grueling 16-year accelerated aging equivalency that involves rigorous shock testing (approx. 60,000 shocks at 500 g), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns) and chronograph-pusher testing (approx.
5,840 start-stop-reset engagements). Only when a Breitling watch has passed its tests can it leave the Chronometrie. “The integration of the Breitling Caliber 01 into the Top Time range shows the emphasis we’re putting on our in-house craftsmanship and expertise,” says Kern. “So stay tuned for future developments from the Breitling Chronometrie. Because this is just the beginning.”
Breitling
Founded in 1884, Breitling is a leading Swiss watchmaker. The innovative company invented the modern chronograph and pioneered the navigational tool watch. Today, it’s still breaking new ground as a casual, inclusive, and sustainable luxury brand with more than 200 industrial-loft-inspired retail locations around the world. Breitling’s collections center around air, land, and sea pursuits, all captured in the brand’s unmistakable modern-retro style. The exceptional quality of every watch movement is confirmed by its status as a COSC-certified chronometer, and the brand remains one of only a handful of independent watchmakers to produce its own manufacture calibers. Combining classic watchmaking with the latest innovations, Breitling is a company with history and one ahead of its time.
Deus Ex Machina
Deus Ex Machina (god from the machine) roared into Australia’s cultural consciousness in 2006, with some neatly customized motorcycles and a quaint notion that doing something is more fun than just owning something. Deus Ex Machina is a step bigger than a brand: it’s a culture. Our openness and enthusiasm strike a chord with people, wherever they are.
Deus (“day-us”) didn’t set out only to sell hand-built motorcycles and quality clothing for free spirits, but to celebrate a culture of creativity. All are welcomed under the Deus roof, where there’s respect for the honesty and enjoyment of the machine. Inclusiveness, authenticity, enthusiasm. It’s a simple and sincere pitch that has winged Deus Ex Machina across the world. Deus Ex Machina says simply there’s no “right way” to do individualism, it’s all the same juice.
Triumph
First established in 1902, Triumph Motorcycles celebrated 120 years of motorcycle manufacture in 2022. For more than three decades, Triumph Motorcycles has been based in Hinckley, Leicestershire, and has produced iconic bikes that perfectly blend authentic design, character, charisma, and performance. Through its global dealer network of 701 dealers, in 2021 Triumph sold a record number of 81,541 motorcycles, representing a growth over the prior year of 29%.